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It’s rowdy, it’s rustic, it’s warm, it’s cosy, it’s real. It showcases one of my favourite aspects of Italy – a small space that brings people of all backgrounds together, from the old man who has never left Florence to the construction worker, entrepreneur, and aristocrat, all sitting at one communal table for the joy of enjoying a great meal. The menu changes seasonally, but Bettola is best known for the penne alla Bettola. I love the fried artichoke and red wine beef stew, as well as the roast pork loin. Followed, of course, by the torta di mele (apple cake).
What’s the best thing to eat when you really need to warm up?
There’s nothing better than a bowl of ribollita to warm up on cold winter evenings. Even better if it’s at Trattoria Ruggero, an old-school, all-wooden restaurant just beyond the city walls past Porta Romana.
What are the parts of town we need to know about?
Neighbourhoods like Sant’Ambrogio are where you get to breathe real Florentine life: locals meet for sandwiches, coffee, or simply hang out between the daily fresh food market. Cibreo Caffé and Tripperia Pollini Sant’Ambrogio are here, as well as Piazza di Sant Ambrogio. At night, the street (Borgo La Croce) fills with young people having drinks outside of bars such as Articolo and Enoteca Sosta dei Papi.
Or head to the Porta Romana area. There are small independent shops like Bronzetto (artisanal lamps) and Vignoli (the best butchers), institutions like Bar Dell’Angolo where young Florentines hang out at night, and people of all ages congregate during the day.
Paint a picture of your perfect November day in Florence.
I’ll have an early breakfast at Caffè Libertà or at Pasticceria Gualtieri, famous for its Iris cake which is naturally gluten-free and made with almond flour. On my way back from Gualtieri, I’ll stop at the Mercato di Santo Spirito for produce and at S.forno for sourdough bread. Then I’ll have a game of tennis at Circolo del Tennis Firenze – I love Circolo in any season.
Lunch has to be in the countryside, either at Ristorante Tullio in Montebeni (order the ravioli alla mugellana, which is potato-stuffed, or the fried bistecca Florentine-style steak). Or I’ll eat at Da Delfina in Artimino. For something more casual, I’ll go to Fattoria Di Maiano for farm-to-table dishes and a stroll across the grounds – it’s especially great if you’re with kids. From Tullio, I like to walk back down to the city centre via the San Domenico neighbourhood. There are a few shortcuts to avoid the main roads but you’ll have to join me on that walk to know the way.
For aperitivo I’ll have a glass of wine, usually natural, at Enoteca Spontanea or Enoteca Bellini. Dinner is at Trattoria Cammillo – an institution that stays solid despite its fame. Owners Chiara and Massimo are there every day. A must-order is pollo al curry, la ceciata (thin chickpea pie), frittata di carciofi (artichoke frittata), and torta di pere (pear cake).
I love to end the day with a movie at Giunti Odeon, a recently renovated cinema that dates back to 1922 and plays films in their original language. It doubles as a bookstore, too.
Is there one can’t-miss November activity you look forward to?
I love cycling to the countryside on a mission – in other words, getting lunch. Also, sitting in front of a wood-burning fire with a glass of wine. Or taking long walks through Florence, from Porta Romana up to the Viale in time for sunset views at San Miniato al Monte, and then down the steep street to San Niccolo for a glass of wine and cheese at Formaggioteca Terroir – all thankfully without the crowds or stifling heat.
