Meanwhile, Asturias and I have become like some cosy long-term couple, comfortable in each other’s company but not yet at the point where familiarity breeds contempt. When summer heats frazzle the south of Spain, I still head north annually towards those sweeping. pristine beaches, those rolling valleys lined with oak and chestnut woods.
And the latest chapter of this particular love story is both a happy ending and a promising new start.
Reader, I’ve just bought a house here.
Solo PalacioJuan Fernandez
Where to stay in Asturias
SoloPalacio
Nothing about SoloPalacio conforms to conventional notions of country-house luxury. First, there’s the location: way down south in a little-populated, little-visited corner of the region among grandiose mountain scenery and hardscrabble villages. Then there’s the back story. The country seat of the aristocratic Miranda-Quirós family, a rambling rural property in the hamlet of Llanuces, was rescued from ruin by Madrid entrepreneur Carlos Díaz. With his partner, designer Sofia Tejerina, Díaz transformed the property into a collection of 11 apartments occupying various outbuildings and a chapel plus the original 16th-century dwelling house, opening as SoloPalacio in June 2023. The USP here is Tejerina’s extraordinary design for the palacio – a radically stripped-down aesthetic employing basic and often humble materials to strikingly beautiful effect. (Think ‘wabi-sabi’ but without the shabby.) The high-ceilinged interiors are devoid of decoration beyond the occasional hand-woven basket or rustic implement; the walls are ruthlessly, unsparingly white. Colour has no place in this warm monastic minimalism: it’s all about the touchy-feely textures of polished- cement floors, bare stone walls and architectural-salvage furniture. Bathroom fixtures might be cheap hardware-store staples, yet the big squishy sofas are acres of cool white linen. Forget five-star fripperies like the big TV, the room service menu, the chocolate on the pillow – though a coffee machine and a bottle of Asturian wine would certainly be nice. On the plus side, there’s a stone-built Wellness Space and an infinity pool with mind-boggling mountain views. It may help to ease the pain of the room rate (whose high-season ceiling of 1059€ has caused quite a stir locally) to know that Diaz intends all profits from the hotel to go towards social projects and conservation schemes in the vicinity. As I said, SoloPalacio is anything but conventional.
Pueblo Astur
This thoroughgoing makeover of an entire country village (Cofiño, near Parres) raised the bar for high-end accommodation in Asturias when it opened in 2016. The sprawling property, which encompasses a church, traditional wooden paneras (granaries), and stables housing rare-breed farm animals, also includes 30 rooms in converted village houses, an excellent spa, river pools for swimming, and two restaurants using produce from the farm. The result is an interesting fusion of rusticism with highly geared luxe.
El Moderne
As Asturias’ brightest and boldest city and a seaside hub of urban culture often compared to Brighton in the UK, Gijón is just the right place for this sleek, chic boutique hotel in a carefully restored 1931 art-deco building.
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CoolRooms Palacio de LucesAlvaro Sancha
CoolRooms Palacio de Luces
Asturias has never been prodigal in really fine hotels, but Palacio de Luces is a notable exception. First opened in 2006, it was recently acquired by the small but energetic Spanish group CoolRooms, who have made their mark on what was already a remarkable building, combining as it does a 16th-century mansion in pale yellow stone with a modernist wing surgically grafted on to the original buildings. Natural light floods in from all sides through plate-glass windows affording huge views of meadows and farmland, the coastline stretching away to east and west, and the hulking form of the Sueve mountain range. The 44 bedrooms, distributed equally between old and new wings, have undergone a total refit since the hotel changed hands in 2018, sweeping away the earlier incarnation’s dowdy brown-and-beige interior in favour of an elegant contemporary-classic look in a palette of greens that almost feels like a continuation of the landscape. Service, pitched five-star high, never feels starchy or formal. Nearby Lastres has some great eating places, but it’s worth staying for dinner at the hotel restaurant Tella. The views from the dining room, through floor-to-ceiling windows opened wide on summer nights, are as delectable as Francisco Ruiz’s new-gen Asturian cuisine with its emphasis on locally sourced produce and cunning nods to the region’s Latin American connections.
Casona de Indias
This bijou 7-room hotel in a former casa de indianos (built for a successful emigré on his return from the Americas) is beautifully sited in a quiet rural setting within reach of the Redes natural park. Owner/manager Pedro Armas is a madrileño incomer whose well-judged taste and hospitality make the casona feel like a particularly well-upholstered and civilised B&B.
Parador de Corias
A former monastery in the remote southwest of the region, this imposing granite building (known as ‘the El Escorial of Asturias’) is a stand-out among recent incorporations to the state-owned Paradores chain. Having arrived at this out-of-the-way location, be sure to visit the nearby nature reserve of Muñiellos, one of Europe’s largest areas of first-growth deciduous forest and a haunt of the Cantabrian brown bear.
Hotel de la Reconquista
The storied Reconquista in Oviedo, all red velvet and antique wood, where dignitaries and celebrities lay their heads during the annual Princess of Asturias awards, is the kind of hotel that Spaniards describe as de toda la vida (‘it’s been there forever’).
Casonas Asturianas
Founded 30 years ago in 1994, this association of farmhouse stays, foursquare village houses and stone-built historic palacios continues to offer exceptional quality and value. It’s worth browsing the website to find jewels like Villa Argentina in Luarca and Casona de la Paca in Cudillero – both examples of the extravagant modernista houses built by wealthy Asturians on their return from the Americas in the early years of the 20th century.
Casa MarcialSiro Garcia
Where to eat and drink in Asturias
Restaurante Guëyu Mar
Top-quality fish and seafood landed at the small-scale fishing harbours along the Cantabrian coast, is a major selling point of Asturian eating. This celebrated beachside restaurant at Playa de Vega does a great line in whole fish (try the virrey, a firm-fleshed local species) cooked over coals or a la plancha.
