Lennart had an unhurried way about him that I liked. ‘Time passes slowly here in the evening,’ he said, putting another log on the fire, giving the coals a stir. The room brightened. ‘And that’s good. You can let your thoughts roll out all the way.’
Which will do nicely as an answer to the ‘What am I doing here?’ question. You’re here to have such conversations and to let your thoughts roll out all the way.
Cinnamon buns at Loggers Lodge, Swedish LaplandOivind Haug
Discover the World offers trips to Swedish Lapland from £950 to £2,594 per person depending on accommodation. For more information, visit swedishlapland.com
Where to stay in Swedish Lapland
An updated guide to the most unique places to stay in this snow-dusted wilderness.
The Tree Hotel
The Tree Hotel, with its focus on sustainability and nature tourism, offers eight truly unique treehouse rooms in winter, surrounded by a snow-covered forest. The hotel is the perfect place to connect with this otherworldly environment, high up in the treetops. The treehouses are carefully crafted from natural materials and blend seamlessly into the surroundings, offering a warm and cosy escape from the cold. Guests can enjoy various activities including snowshoeing, ice fishing, snowmobiling and cross-country skiing. So whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or a unique winter experience, this spot is intrinsically linked to the biodiversity of its natural surroundings.
Address: Edeforsvägen 2 A, 960 24 Harads, Sweden
Arctic Bath
The Arctic Bath hotel, in the Harad’s forests, is one-of-a-kind. The timber logging history in this region of Lapland inspired the design of the Land and Sea cabins and the main Arctic bath spa here. A wall of glass windows offers guests a front-row seat to the stunning Arctic landscape, including – if you’re lucky enough – the Northern Lights. The team carefully crafted the cabins to provide Scandinavian comfort and luxury, focusing on sustainability and minimising the environmental impact. The highlight of the Arctic Bath hotel is that eponymous bath, a circular wooden platform allowing access to the icy waters below. Soak in the hot tubs while taking in the breathtaking views of the surrounding forest and the twinkly night sky.
Address: Ramdalsvägen 10, 961 78 Harads, Sweden
Arctic Retreat
The eco-lodge Arctic Retreat is hidden in the Rane river valley, just one hour’s drive from Lulea. Three cosy log cabins sleep up to four, each offering panoramic windows and a private outdoor jacuzzi, perfect for viewing the northern lights. A wood-fired log sauna offers an authentic Scandinavian winter experience all to yourself, as do the numerous activities such as dog sledging and a moose safari. Both come highly recommended. The food is locally sourced and prepared by chef Emanuel Swärd, a keen local fishing enthusiast. Be sure to try the Kalix Bleak roe and the redfin perch.
Address: Överstbyn 50, 961 97 Gunnarsbyn, Sweden
This article was first published in 2018, and has been updated in 2023.