Panagia Poulati monastery on the east coast of SifnosDavid Loftus
There is also excellent food – and people-watching – to be had at Platis Gialos, a long, shallow strip of sand lined with beach bars and restaurants. You might even spot Tom Hanks at Omega 3, a tiny fish and wine bar where it’s worth wrestling the competition for a stool. Here, the seafood (much of it harpooned by the owner, Vasilis Vlachogiorakis) is cured, caramelised, smoked and cooked sous-vide.
On Saturday evening, everyone hits Apollonia, the lively hill-top capital, for a night out. Here, stylish French couples buy beaded sandals and designer kaftans on Steno, the narrow lane that snakes through town (Colores has the best selection of summer essentials). Trendy bars have sprung up on rooftops and terraces all over the place, but O Drakakis is still the heart of the action – an old-time café where locals have been chewing the fat and knocking back rakomelo (warm grappa with honey, cinnamon and cloves) since 1887. I soak up my rakomelo shots with slivers of fried manoura -– crumbly goat’s cheese cured in red wine. For me, nothing can beat Botzi, a little bar that only really gets going after midnight. The warren of smoky rooms, lethal Mojitos and Afro-Cuban tunes take me back 25 years, and I am young again, and completely carefree.
Where to stay on Sifnos
Verina Astra
Verina Hotels has three stylish boltholes: with its cliff-side setting, Verina Astra (doubles from about £145) is effortlessly sexy. All suites have stunning sea views, exclusive access to the dazzling infinity pool and small spa, and priority booking at new (in 2022) field-to-fork restaurant, Bostani.
Verina Terra
At Verina Terra (doubles from about £135), minimalist maisonettes are set around peaceful gardens and a family-friendly pool. Most guests take advantage of the daily yoga classes in a bamboo pavilion. Across the road on sandy Platis Gialos beach, there are sunbeds, pedalos, a couple of low-key beach bars, and half a dozen superb waterfront restaurants (including hot ticket Omega 3).
Verina Villa
Bang on Vathi bay, white-on-white Verina Villa (sleeps 18; from about £17,800 per week) has a gym, hammam, tennis court and saltwater pool, plus a fleet of canoes, kayaks and surfboards you can take to the beach, which is just beyond the garden gate.
Sifnos Pav and Sifnos Pad
The Pavlidis family has two grandly spacious, architectural and minimalist villas Sifnos Pav and Sifnos Pad are constructed from local stone. One melts into the curves of a hill overlooking the fishing village of Faros; the other hunkers into the sealine at Cape Napos, with a vegetation-shrouded roof. Their fungi-enriched, drought-resistant gardens lock in rainwater. A third project, Fysika, a collection of low-impact stone villas, is in the pipeline.
Kamaroti
Hidden in an olive grove, Kamaroti (doubles from around £95) excels at mid-century-modern style in peaceful rural surroundings. Built and operated by two Spanish brothers, the vibe is seductively laid-back, and the Greco-Iberian food is fantastic. Gazpacho, spinach and halloumi salad, and Spanish potato salad are served poolside or under the olive trees. Genuinely friendly and stylish in a completely unpretentious way, this is one of those rare hotels that appeals to everyone — from loved-up couples to multi-gen families.
Nos
Nos (doubles from about £254) opened in summer 2022, bringing some much-needed pizzazz to the sleepy fishing village of Faros. Sun-kissed suites in shades of sand and olive are clustered around the photogenic pool and outdoor restaurant, where the modern Greek food is beautifully plated on local ceramics. Ask for a suite with views of Chryssopigi, the island’s prettiest monastery, which is a lovely 30-minute hike along a coastal trail. The outdoor treatment room has even more sensational views.
Sifnos House
Sifnos House (doubles from £135) has simple, quiet rooms set back from the little port of Kamares and its seaside tavernas, sandy bay, and painterly sunsets. An effortless option for long weekenders and young families.
Lunch at Tsapis taverna near Apokofto beachDavid Loftus
Where to eat and drink on Sifnos
Omega3
In the tamarisk-lined enclave of Platis Gialos, Omega3’s pergola-shaded bar tables belie a directional menu: we eat amberjack sashimi and a summer salad of samphire, caper leaves, olives and purslane. Sifnian chef Giorgos Samoilis, self-taught and a molecular biologist, started experimenting with his friend’s catches to create a smorgasbord of raw pescatarian fun, and the rest is history. Menus are sometimes infiltrated by ceviche, tempura and other Latin assortments but produce is resolutely Greek. @omega3_sifnos
Cantina
Zero-waste and hyper-local, Giorgo Samoilis’s second project has a nose-to-tail menu that flexes based on produce. The scene is a simple cottage built into the cliffs behind the pebbled Seralia beach, with a few precious tables on the rocks. “I wanted to make the project part of Sifnos, starting with the way you have to walk down the cliffside when you leave the car,” says Samoilis. Cantina is a meeting point for interesting people and a love letter to island produce, from the scorpion fish that arrive alive and fresh to Sifnian lamb, fava crepe and chickpea panisse. cantinasifnos.gr
Bostani Bar and Restaurant
The bar-restaurant of favoured boutique hotel Verina Astra, Bostani spells the ultimate Greek night by the sea, with golden ocean views. Chef Nikos Thomas’s modern bistronomy menu includes raw and cold dishes, such as the well-loved strawberry tomato with “Greek salad juice”. Bostani means a small herb garden in Greek; here, that garden supplies the restaurant. Even the lavender and thyme are put to use in fresh botanical cocktails. verinahotelsifnos.com
Loggia Wine Bar
Created by oenophile music-industry friends, Loggia combines great Greek wine, cheese, tunes and views over Kastro’s Seralia beach. There’s a focus on biodynamic low-intervention Greek wines and a list of more than 100 bottles, with many by the glass. @loggia_sifnos
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