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The Khaite aesthetic can be easily defined: A downtown woman on the go. For a reference image, look no further than Katie Holmes, who was famously papped wearing a cashmere bra and matching cardigan from the brand in 2019. It’s an image that’s consistently mood-boarded to this day.
When it came to creating the spring 2024 beauty look, founder Catherine Holstein and longtime collaborator Guido Palau only tested two hair looks before settling on the one sent down the runway—a wet-looking updo that’s sleek in the front but a bit chaotic, with ends untucked, in the back.
“Wet hair, pulled up in a messy knot, is an unexpected look for this show,” Palau says. “It’s the wrong hairstyle for a woman wearing such beautifully made clothing. But this downtown updo is one of those instances when the wrong becomes the right.”
It’s the beauty version of stylist Allison Bornstein’s “wrong-shoe theory,” which states that when a fashion look is completed with a surprising shoe it has more personality. It would certainly be a very different vibe if Khaite’s spring 2024 collection, described as “fierce” by Vogue’s Nicole Phelps, had marched down the runway with softly blown-out, romantic hair.
The key to getting the wet-hair look onto the 44 models in just a few hours pre-runway—with not a shower in sight inside the Park Avenue Armory, where both the prep and the show took place—is Tresemmé’s Extra Hold Hair Mousse. “You have to really saturate the entire head of hair,” Palau says. “And once you’ve put in what you think is enough mousse, just go ahead and add a little more.”
From there, use your hands to smoothly snatch hair into a ponytail at the middle of the back of your head and secure. Next, twist and secure with pins. “Leave a couple of tendrils just hanging out,” Palau says as he works. “That’s the rebellion, the hardness of it all.”
Photo: Ashley Jahncke
If you’re not into actually running about town with wet hair (maybe you hear your grandmother’s voice in your head saying you’ll catch a cold), don’t fret. The mousse only gives the effect of wet hair—and once finished off with Keratin Smooth Shine Serum, it will just appear drenched for hours.
Palau continues on about the coolness of the Khaite woman. “She’s the modern juxtaposition in the most exciting way,” he says. “Pulled together in this luxurious clothing, but when it comes to her hair, she didn’t have time to do it or think about it. So she just throws it up to get out the door.” Right in line with the season’s theme of cosmopolitans on the go, she marches on.
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