But as Lee mentions, even with traditional dishes, maintaining high standards requires “great knowledge, skill and work.” “Our pie takes 48 hours to make,” Magnaloc shares. “Everything is from scratch.” Hamdy explains how restaurants will still demonstrate finesse with rustic concepts. “We’ll see more hints of innovative techniques alongside very traditional recipes, things like foams and mousses that don’t detract from the essence of the dish, and much higher quality produce than most home cooks can access.”
As for other dishes coming out of this trend this year? Lee weighs in. “Once upon a time, it was all lamb cutlets and braises – pig trotters, oxtail, shanks. I’m seeing the return of these. Rural cooking is again taking place at the highest form of cooking imaginable, which is incredible.”
“We’re going to see well-executed reintroductions to classics for a while,” Magnaloc says. She’s excited about introducing her take on another retro favourite – a sausage roll – to Donia. On the sweeter side, Jackson hints at retro desserts like trifle coming to Catherine St. “Sundaes too, I love ice cream,” she laughs. “I won’t put anything on until it’s perfect though!”
That 2024 marks an era of retro dining is also clear from upcoming openings. At Josephine, opening in March, chef Claude Bosi will recreate his grandmother’s traditional French cooking alongside his wife Lucy Bosi, in a classic and timeless setting. We can expect a rendition of the age-old Cornish pasty at Roe, the newest venture from the trio behind Fallow (chefs Will Murray and Jack Croft, and entrepreneur James Robson) landing this Spring. Nostalgia is woven into King’s comeback plans too. Speaking of his reboot of the storied Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, he tells me, “We’ll see a return of some historic menu items, yes, it’s very much about British treasures, things that may have been forgotten that can be rediscovered. But there will be no change for the sake of change. I like to keep things fairly simple and fairly classic but with my own little twist.” Another one of his upcoming projects, The Arlington, will be emotionally nostalgic, occupying the former site of Le Caprice. As for Le Caprice itself, there’s talk of a re-launch by its proprietor Richard Caring at The Chancery Rosewood, the 2025 hotel touted as Grosvenor Square’s new crown jewel. One thing is for sure – for today’s restaurateurs, looking forwards, means looking back.
Mountain restaurant interiorsBenjamin McMahon
Dish at Mountain restaurantBenjamin McMahon
3 picks for enjoying retro classics
Mountain, Soho
Tomos Parry’s sophomore salute to open-fire techniques is reminiscent of his debut Brat, but the cooking here feels more assured. The oxtail is a must. One spoonful in and I’m grinning ear to ear. A juicy hunk of tender meat (thankfully not 90 per cent bone!) is glossed with a deep mahogany-coloured gravy that’s skilfully layered and packed with 24-karat richness. It’s assertively savoury, so pair it with the smoked potatoes.
Claridge’s, Mayfair
The grande dame of desserts is given a nifty facelift fit for London’s art deco icon. I’m initially a little apprehensive about a citrus sorbet centre, but the zesty freshness, bitter hint of grapefruit and anise-y pinch of mint marigold cut through the sugary meringue nicely – which is soft, a welcome twist! Sure, the flambé is a fun party trick for the table, but the real magic lies in the Grand Marnier-soaked cake base.
Quo Vadis, Soho
The daily pie is a no-brainer, and we’ve hit the jackpot with chicken velouté. Once we crash into the ultra crispy, golden-brown suet pastry (ASMR activated!), it’s hard to stop. The pie is definitely for sharing, but I quickly feel territorial. With succulent pieces of thigh meat coated in a delightful blend of roux and stock, it reflects the easy charm of this Soho hearth.
